A men's shoe with small holes punched in the leather is called a brogue. The holes sit along the seams and on the toe of the shoe, together with serrated edges. This pattern is called broguing. So brogue refers to the decoration, while Oxford and Derby refer to the lacing system. That means a brogue can be either an Oxford or a Derby. At Suitable you'll find them among our formal shoes and lace-up shoes.

Where the brogue comes from

The brogue originates in Ireland and Scotland, where people wore it as a sturdy outdoor shoe on boggy ground. According to tradition, the holes originally went all the way through the leather, so that water could drain out and feet dried faster. The name also has Irish and Scottish roots: the Gaelic bróg simply means shoe. Over time broguing became mainly decorative, which is why the holes today usually no longer go all the way through the leather.

Types of brogue shoes

Not all shoes with perforations are equally ornate. Where the holes sit and how the toe cap runs determine which type of brogue it is:

• Quarter brogue: perforations only along the seam of the toe cap
• Semi-brogue: an additional pattern on the toe itself
• Full brogue or wingtip: a wing-shaped toe cap that runs along the sides
• Longwing: a wingtip whose wings extend all the way round to the heel

When do you wear brogues?

The more perforations, the more casual the shoe. A full brogue therefore works well with chinos or jeans. In autumn, brown brogues for men pair nicely with warm fabrics such as tweed and flannel. Wearing a dark suit to a formal occasion? Then choose a quarter brogue or a plain shoe without perforations.