How to choose the right undershirt

You don't always see a good undershirt, but you definitely feel it. Which one works best depends on what you wear over it. Under a shirt you want it to stay invisible, while under a jumper or overshirt it can be part of your outfit. Choose the undershirt that suits your wardrobe in five steps.

By Pascal·10-12-2026·Calculate reading time
How to choose the right undershirt
Which undershirt do you wear under a shirt, jumper or overshirt? Choose the right colour, neckline, sleeves, material and fit in five steps.

What do you wear under a shirt, jumper or overshirt?

Before you choose an undershirt, first decide whether it may be seen. That depends on what you wear on top:

InvisibleVisible
Worn underShirt and poloJumper, cardigan, overshirt, gilet, etc.
Role of your undershirtAbsorbs sweat and deodorant.A layer of your outfit.
What you seeNothing, not at the neckline or through the fabric.An edge at the neckline or the entire shirt.
Choose based onInvisibility and comfort.Colour, neckline and look.

Step 1: Choose the colour

Under a white shirt, choose a beige basic T-shirt or a shade that is as close as possible to your skin tone. It sounds contradictory, but a white undershirt contrasts with your skin and therefore shows through the fabric. These are the most popular combinations:

  • Under a light blue or striped shirt, beige works just as well.
  • Under a black or navy shirt, a black or navy undershirt is the least noticeable.
  • Under a jumper, overshirt or gilet, your basic T-shirt can be seen. White adds a fresh accent, navy and black are more subdued and tone-on-tone looks polished.

Step 2: Choose the neckline

The neckline you choose depends on what shows above the collar. Under a shirt, the rule is: the more buttons open, the deeper the neckline. Under a jumper, simply follow its neckline. These are the most stylish combinations:

TopSuitable necklineBest Suitable undershirt
Shirt with tieHigh crew neckObra
Shirt with top button openWide crew neckObra
Shirt with two buttons openV-neckVitasu
Shirt with deep collarDeep V-neckVitaru
Crew neck jumperCrew neck, a narrow edge may show.Obra or Ota
V-neck jumperV-neck, make sure no edge is visible.Vitasu
Roll neck jumperDoesn't matter, just keep it thin.Any basic T-shirt

Step 3: Choose the sleeves

For most men, an undershirt with short sleeves is the best choice. The sleeves absorb sweat under your armpits, exactly where most sweat stains appear in your shirt or jumper.


A sleeveless undershirt, such as the Viless, is lighter and cooler. It works well under a short-sleeved shirt or polo, because no sleeves peek out underneath. It does not protect against sweat, and the edges can show through a white or thin shirt.

Step 4: Choose the material

The best material depends on the weather, the occasion and how many layers your outfit has:

  • Cotton is soft, breathable and easy to care for. It absorbs moisture well, but dries more slowly. Choose T-shirts made from GOTS-certified organic cotton and you know the cotton has been grown and processed under certified organic conditions.
  • Bamboo feels soft and cool and fits smoothly to your body. That makes it comfortable under a tailored shirt. Read why more and more men are wearing bamboo or browse our collection of bamboo T-shirts.
  • Stretch (elastane) keeps your undershirt in shape and lets it move with you.

Step 5: Mind the fit and length

A good undershirt fits neatly without being tight and stays in place all day. Pay attention to the following:

  • A size too big quickly creates folds under your shirt or fine-knit jumper. You notice it straight away, especially with a tailored fit.
  • Make sure the sleeves don't peek out from under your shirt sleeves and don't create hard lines on your upper arm.
  • A long undershirt won't ride up out of your trousers when you sit down or stretch your arms. Choose our extra long T-shirts for this.
  • Wearing your basic T-shirt under an overshirt? Then choose a slightly sturdier cotton quality. It drapes more neatly and keeps its shape longer.

Which undershirt under which garment?

All steps summarised in one overview:

Top layerColourNecklineSleeves
White or light blue shirtBeige or close to your skin toneDepends on the number of open buttonsShort sleeves
Black or navy shirtBlack or navyDepends on the number of open buttonsShort sleeves
Polo or short-sleeved shirtBeige or the colour of the poloV-neckSleeveless
Crew neck jumperWhite, navy or tone-on-toneCrew neckShort sleeves
V-neck jumperTone-on-toneV-neckShort sleeves
Roll neck jumper or cardiganFree choiceFree choiceFree choice
Overshirt or giletWhite, black, navy or beigeCrew neckShort sleeves

Should you always wear an undershirt?

No, but under a dress shirt it is recommended. Without an undershirt, sweat goes straight into your shirt and your skin shows through thin white fabric. On very hot days, or under an airy linen shirt that you wear open, you can easily leave the basic T-shirt out.

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